Cyber Lawnmower .com

The starter coil couldn't be pulled. It seemed like the starter coil was stuck.

Are you out of oil? Do a change of oil while you are at it anyway.It's a yearly maintenance thing. Is your recoil system broken?Adding a small amount of oil through the spark plug opening will re-lubricate the piston as well.

2007-04-28 07:52:15 by bermudask8er7

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We have tried everything we can think of. Changed a blown fuse. Checked the starter. Checked the wiring. When we had the battery on a charger it started, but now it won't start when on the charger. The motor turns over but acts like it's sticking and won't do anything. (it did this when we had the charger hooked up directly to the charger). Any ideas???
we have put new spark plugs on. the oil has already been changed.

When a battery is weak, it may not start even on a charger. If the motor turns but does so weakly, then it would seem to be the battery or the starter is dragging. Make sure also, that all the safety switches are oaky. If these go bad, they will also keep the motor from starting.

2009-04-15 12:21:03 by His Wife

i got a pretty high power but small electric motor which used to be on a electric weed wacker it has a metal gear on it with 16 teeth, now i need to know how many teeth should the flywheel of a lawn mower 5hp have to start it up. and also it need to use a 3 gear set up since the direction of the motor with gears will make it go reverse. i need the gear on the starter which is 16 teeth the gear in between which is 47 teeth and then i need to figure out what size teeth for the flywheel any help is greatly appreciated

The number of teeth needed is secondary to the gear diameters, the speed of your "starter motor" and the speed the flywheel needs to turn to start the engine. The only factor that dictates the number of teeth is whether they will mesh or not and is usually stated as teeth per inch. What to you plan to use as an override bendix?

2009-08-17 10:15:38 by Meatpuppet17

i have riding lawn mower and starter kicks out and turns motor one turn then stops..i hooked starter to a charger and it will keep running fine so i dont think its the starter..what should i do next

If the battery test good and all of the connections are good 12 volt source, check the valves in both overhead valve or in block style valve. Meaning, an overhead valve has a head with valves in it that you can take off, push rods, and adjustable rocker arms ( the valves are not contained with in the block). You should also check them on a valve inblock style on some series and brands ( ex. if it is like a k series Kohler they have adjustable tappets in them that have a clearance that needs to be set). I forgot to mention this style of motor contain the valve in the engine block You can tell by the head just being flat and just having spark plug hole and no moving parts in it. If it is a valve in block style or overhead, and all other conditions are met valves set properly,no electrical problems. This could maybe have a compression release problem. There is a spring and a lift pin on the camshaft that releases compression from the piston chamber. It is on the cam shaft and through cintrifigal force allows weights through turning rpm to move a pin and in turn allow the valve to go to the open position allowing compression to leak down and not dead head while starting so it can be turned over easier. After the engine starts the weights fall back in and the release is no longer holding the valve open and the valve tran operates normally. Usually if you put a charger on it will start fine. With this problem the starter has unlimited amperage ( whatever the charger is usually 300-600 amps if it a big one) to turn that motor over. Most mower batterys will carry a lot less cold cranking amps. Just remember that testing your cables can be tricky checking them with an ohm meter is a bad reading because if just one strand of the cable is touching you will get a good reading. Check the draw of the starter with an inductive pickup to see how many amps it is pulling if it is pulling just a few it is cable and connections or starter prob. If it is pulling a lot could be starter problems or it could be a compression problem because the starter is having to work double time to try and turn that motor since the cylinder is building up full compression. I have had the compression release in many cases cause a customer to buy a new starter, cables, and switch when he didn't need em. He put it on and it didn't make a difference. I am into diagnosing not spendin money. Hope I helped you diagnose it and I explained it so you could understand p.s Just dont want you to spend money on something you dont' need!

2007-10-18 18:33:40 by carol k

I bought a new Bolens riding lawn mower with a 15.5 hp Briggs & Stratton motor with a 2 year warrenty on it. Well just two weeks after my 2 year warrenty was up I started my mower and blew a 3 inch hole through the motor. I am an aircraft mechanic and tuned up and changed the oil in it every year. I heard that Briggs & Stratton are now made in China and from my experience I believe it now.

I was lucky and found a 1992 Montgomery Ward Industrial,Commercial 7 speed 42 inch riding mower with a 12.5 hp Briggs & Stratton I/C Quite Industrial Commercial moter for $150.
What I want to know is why is my current 17 year old lawn mower still going strong and new ones today only seem to last for two years.

Like I said I am an aircraft mechanic.. My boat is a 1989 Maxum Cuddy with a Force 125 that still runs like new, My car is a 1971 Plymouth Satellite that was still running on it's original spark plugs and starter when I got it. I guess the days of being made in the U.S.A. meaning anything are over.

I have been looking for my next riding lawn mower to come with anything but a Briggs & Stratton motor. I am sure though that my 17 year old B&S has a few more years left in it. Heck I think that I should just rebuild my current riding mower and motor since it seems that anything new today is built only to last through it's warrenty and nothing else.

Spike2428

Find out where B$S head office is. Take photos of your damaged engine in detail.. Write a description and history to them and ask them if their current engines are doing this and why did this one malfunction when in a normal operation mode and did not run out of oil for some reason.. Perhaps an oil leak occurred and the engine unexpectedly ran out of oil.. You are an aircraft mechanic and can understand that something serious went wrong to inflict such damage.. Manufacturers usually appreciate feed back and you never know.. You might get a bonus.

2009-04-22 21:55:24 by Scott F