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John Deere Horicon Works of Deere & CO
300 North Vine Street, Horicon, WI 53032
(920) 485-4411
this is my grandpas snapper it has a 12.5 hp Briggs amp; Stratton 28 inch HI VAC deck nice lawn mower. Check out my channel, Rate, Comment ...
I have a 1987 model Snapper rear engine rider and I have a replacement engine ordered for it. I have been told that there is a keyway at the end of the shaft coming out of the [vertical] engine. If I remove the mounting bolts, will the engine slip off of the top of the pulleys, or how much work will be involved? I am somewhat of an auto tech, but when it comes to small engine replacement, I'm starting from scratch. It's an 11 hp vertical Briggs engine. Any advice is appreciated!! Thanks in advance!!
Swapping engines on a scale of 1-10 is probably around a 5 - not hard, but theres some stuff involved. The rear engined tractor is a bit tougher, with all the mechanicals located at the back, but it can be done with normal tools.
First off id reccomend taking photos/drawings of linkages/belt paths/ect before taking anything off, to help with reassembly.
The wires from the starter motor, and charging system need to be unhooked, the fuel lines ( gas should be drained out) and throttle/choke cables need to be unhooked, since the old motor is no good, id drain the oil out of it ( ive tipped one over- its a mess!) to be on the safe side. Pretty much the only thing left is removing the motor mount bolts, it might be easier to either jack it up and block it or since its a Snapper - it could be stood on end and easily unbolted. The motor and drive plate/pulley should come out thru the chassis.
Once the motor is off the tractor, you'll have to remove the pulley/plate to put on new motor, theres a small allenhead screw holding it on the motor- loosen that , it might be a bit tough to pull off, but it will.
When putting on the new motor, use a light coating of never seize on the engine crank end, so if it needs removing later- itll come off easier. Remount the motor back on the chassis, and reattach all the linkages/hoses. Id suggest a good high quality SAE 30 motor oil and using a new fuel filter on the fuel line. The only thing that might be a problem is the charging system wire - you might have to splice it, depending on the wires from the motor and chassis. After the first mowing- to be sure , just recheck all the engine mount bolts- check it over.
Like what has to be removed to get the belt off the engine shaft pulley?
Which belt needs replacing? The blade belt is quite a bit easier than the drive belt. It is pretty hard to describe. It will probably be easier to go on line and pull the manuals. You should be able to pull up some blow-ups to get a better idea of what it entails. Sorry.
I have a Snapper rear engine lawn mower. When I turn sharp in one direction, the front wheels get stuck. The steering wheel is very hard to straighten out and one in a while it gets stuck in position and I have to kick the wheel while driving to get it to turn straight.
What is the problem and what can I do to fix this? I have alredy stripped/sheared the bolt at the steering column from forcing the wheels straight from turning.
Thoughts anyone?
My suggestion is to check the gear and steering plate (called a sector gear) and seeing if there are problems with their movements This can be done by setting the machine up on end and looking at the steering as you move the wheel. If you need to replace the parts, then search http://www.snapper.com for your nearest dealer, as Snapper does not sell parts directly to the customer.
I am the proud inheritor of a Yard-Man "Easy Rider" rear-engine riding lawn mower powered by a 12.57 cu. in. 5HP Briggs and Stratton vertical crankshaft engine. The following are the identification codes off the engine tag:
MODEL: 130902
TYPE: 0355 02
CODE: 76102507
I cannot seem to find a replacement engine out there, as the machine was probably built around 1980 or so (I'm guessing). I'd have to imagine that there's a more up-to-date engine that I can drop into this beast.
Is it workable to replace such an old engine with something with a few more "horses?" I'm really having trouble getting any info on "OEM"-type replacements.
Thanks!
Jayson
As stated, the shaft size is the most important thing. The mounting pattern will be the same on a similar sized engine. The engine you have was made in 1976, they haven't changed much over the years. I would think that you could go up towards 10 hp before the shaft size changes.
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Review by Paul D. Morrow (Anaheim, CA, USA) 2010-01-09
We have ownership of the products B & D so we are biased. They do not seem to disappoint. Our first B & D mower was a work of second-hand that we have 12 years. Season after season, little has stopped working. Unfortunately, these have an expiry date and the baby just died. Of course we went to another B & Q. Are now larger allowing less... Read more Black & Decker reviews Review by A. Gunawan (USA) 2009-12-30
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Lawn Boy Self Propelled Gas Mower | Walk Behind Mower - Reviews ...
If your are tired (literary) of your push lawn mower then the Lawn Boy 10641 self propell mower is the solution for you. The self propelled variable, speed rear drive makes mowing you lawn an easy task for anyone in your family, this quality mower is lightweight and easy to maneuver. Another great advantage over other petrol lawn mowers is the Briggs & Stratton engine with ReadyStart™. There’s no need to prime or choke, just pull start in one go and mow. Lawn Boy are well known there there exceptional customer service and they back this up with 3 year Tru-Start Commitment and 3 Year Power Train Warranty and 2...
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